Winter is almost over, and with it the time for
introspection also draws to a close. The heavy rains and shorter days have given
us time to create a sign system that illustrates our priorities in the garden. In
the coming year some focuses like crop selection and soil building will stay
the same, and this season they will be enhanced by a winter of planning that we
did not have last year.

Education is also a key priority as we enter the 2008
growing season, and one of the primary tools that we developed this winter is
our garden didactic system. This collection consists of 23 concept signs and 30
profile crop signs. They will be scattered throughout the garden to greatly
enhance its accessibility.

This project was beneficial to the Energy Garden initiative
because in the process compiling the content, we were able to summarize our
work to date. In addition, the signs helped us to identify the focal points of
the garden and the methods that influence its development.

The concept signs consist of:

·
Goals of the Sebastopol Energy Garden

·
Community Compost Collection

·
The Sebastopol Energy Garden Growth Collage

·
Square Foot Gardening Method

·
Natural Farming – The “Do Nothing” Method

· Cover Crops

·
The Water Catchment System

·
Drip Irrigation

·
Culinary Herb Spiral

·
Mandala Garden: The Sheet Mulch Technique

·
Methods of Season Extension: Towards a “Four
Season Harvest”

·
Appropriate Technologies

·
Processing and Harvesting Techniques

·
Tree Guilds: Edible Forest Gardening

·
Garden Cycle Tracking

·
Ethanol Production

·
The Fractional Still

·
Recycling and Compost: Designing “From Cradle to
Cradle”

·
Chickens

·
Biointensive Concepts

·
Permaculture Principles

Each sign corresponds to something that is happening in the
garden or that has influenced its progression. There are also 30 profile crops
that we have chosen because of their ability to help us adapt to Peak Oil.
Instead of a lawn, we are selecting a great range of crops to benefit humans
and the environment. Please see http://www.energyfarms.net/node/1495 for a list
of these crops.

These signs will enable people with a wide range of
understanding of sustainability to experience a transformed suburban lawn. When
people visit this year, during our second growing season, they will be
introduced to a diversity of crops with a large variety of functions. In
addition, they will be exposed to techniques and technologies that are easy to
learn and have the potential to make a big difference in their lives.

The rains will soon stop, and spring will bring a time of
action. We will sow seeds of diversity in the garden and hopefully, inspiration
in the community. The Energy Garden is always open to visitors and we look
forward to helping more people experience the resilience of the Earth.

Jason Bradford and I left Willits early in the morning and made our way down to Sebastopol, California to visit Julian Darley (director of Post Carbon Institute) and Celine Rich (executive director of Post Carbon Institute). The mission of the day was to design an Energy Garden at Post Carbon Institute’s new international headquarters in Sebastopol. The intent of this garden is to showcase a diversity of energy crops and to create a beautiful space for people to visit. Since a portion of the garden will be visible from the road it is sure to attract the attention of neighbors and passersby.

After arriving we noticed that a good amount of work had been done to prepare the space for planting. Rows of 4Ftx10Ft beds had been prepared and a thin layer of compost had been spread on the top. Below the compost was a very fine soil that was a majority of silt. Jason and I recommended the addition of a bit more compost since it will help the soil retain moisture and add organic matter to the soil. Another section of land near the road will be divided into three beds 4Ftx33Ft and planted with a combination of compost and energy crops. The total area of the Energy Garden is about 1,476 Sq Ft.

Celine had been busy gathering seeds for the demonstration garden and Julian had been considering ways to water the plots in the most efficient way possible. The energy crops include sugar beets, Dale (sweet) sorghum, soybeans, Peredovik sunflower, miscanthus, switch grass, corn, and Jerusalem artichokes. Flax and kenaf will round out the fiber crops and small grains of quinoa, amaranth, and buckwheat will be grown for their beauty and chicken feed. We all agreed with Julian that the crops will be watered on a drip system that incorporates various emitters to suit each planting orientation.

Utilizing each space we can for energy crop research, I requested that we under-sow clover among certain stands of flax in order to get an idea of how the two crops grow together. My hypothesis is that the clover will not be over-shaded by the flax and will grow fine. Additionally, I don’t think that the clover will over-compete against the flax for soil nutrients. I am excited about this small trial because if clover can be grown among flax then we might have an energy crop/cover crop combination that can add nitrogen and organic matter to the soil while simultaneously growing a useful fiber or oilseed crop.

More pictures to come as the Energy Garden evolves through the spring and summer.

Weather Station and Future Energy Garden at Post Carbon Institute's New Headquaters

3 Switchgrass Plants Surrounded by a Layer of Mulch that Helps to Retain Soil Moisture

Energy Garden Beds to Be Planted Out in the Coming Weeks

We are beginning to plant out the first 330 Sq feet of spring annuals. After prepping annual beds, we began to get our first plants into the soil. When you look at the picture below and travel from left to right you will get a sense of our planting arrangement. There are about 66 Sq ft of pole peas, 33 Sq Ft of Turnips, 15 Sq Feet of Beets, 66 Sq Ft of Cabbage, 56 Sq Ft of Russian Red Kale, 60 Sq Ft of Swiss Chard, 10 Sq Feet of Spinach. These plants are all companions- and in the case of turnips and peas- there is evidence of a beneficial interaction. The beets and turnips were sown in one pass with the three-way Earthway seeder set to 4.5 inches width.

Our planting method incorporates aspects of Grow Biointensive ™ plant spacing and the idea that a polyculture system allows flexibility and provides a setting that may allow a crop to avoid disease. Moreover, it allows us to plant crops in easy to access places in the bed. Although omitted this time, I think it will be excellent to add other companion plants like marigolds, nasturtium, calendula, and chives into our next beds. These plants have been reported to improve flavor and lure beneficial pest predators. There is clearly a value added component to a farm or garden anywhere that pests can be minimized without sacrificing the health of the body and environment to the use of pesticides.

I would like to include plant spacing numbers to give you an idea of how intensely the bed is being planted:

• 66 Sq ft of Peas: (2 rows of peas 66 feet long at 3 inch spacing)
• 33 Sq Ft of Turnips: (2 rows of turnips 66 feet long with 5 inch spacing)
• 15 Sq Feet of Beets: (1 row of beets 66 feet long at 5 inch spacing)
• 66 Sq Ft of Cabbage: (1 row of cabbage at 66 long at 15 inch spacing)
• 56 Sq Ft of Russian Red Kale: (2 rows of Kale 28 feet long at 15 inch spacing)
• 60 Sq Ft of Swiss Chard: (3 rows of Chard 30 feet long at 8 inch spacing)
• 10 Sq Feet of Spinach: (3 rows of Spinach 5 feet long at 4 inch spacing)

This bed is 5 Ft wide and 66 Ft long

From Left to Right (Peas, Turnips, Beets, Cabbage Spinach/Chard/ Kale)

We have been growing starts of Kale and Lettuce in a
glasshouse for about 3 weeks. They will be ready for transplant sometime next
week. For those who might be planting Kale or Lettuce there is a chart below
that you might find useful. On that chart, *LFD=Last frost date and *FFD= First
frost date. For Willits, LFD is usually May 15 and FFD is usually October 15.

Kale (Brassica
oleracea var. acephela)

Family: Brassicaceae (Mustard Family)

Temperature:

• For
  germination: 45°F-95°F
• For
  growth: 60°F-65°F

--Soil and Water Needs--

pH: 6.0-7.0

Fertilizer: Heavy feeder, use compost.

Side Dressing: Apply when plants are about one-third grown.

Water: Heavy

--Measurements--

Planting Depth: ½”

Root Depth: 6”-12”

Height: 12”-18”

Breadth: 8”-12”

Space Between Plants:

• In
  beds: 15”-18”
• In
  rows: 18”-24”

Space Between Rows: 24”-46”

--Grow Biointensive Measurements--

Space Between Plants:

• In
  Beds: 15”

Maximum Number of Plants per 100 Square Feet: 84

--Threats and Interactions--

Pests: Aphid, cabbage looper, cabbage maggot, celery
leaftier, diamondback moth, flea beetle, harlequin bug, imported cabbage worm,
Mexican bean beetle, mites, thrips, weevil.

Diseases: Alternaria leaf spot, black leg, clubroot.

Allies: Uncertain: Chamomile, dill, garlic, mint,
nasturtium, rosemary, sage, tansy, (perhaps tomato).

Companions: Artichoke, beet, bush bean, celery, cucumber,
lettuce, onion, peas, potato, spinach.

Incompatibilities: Pole beans, strawberry, (perhaps tomato).

Planting:

First Seed-Starting Date:
(Plant every 10 days in case of poor germination)

Last Seed-Starting Date:

Harvest notes: Harvest younger leaves from the middle and
work your way up the stalk as it grows. Keep some of the leaves on the bottom
to feed growth at the top. You can also harvest the plant all at once by
cutting the stem near the bottom.

Storage Requirements: For fresh storage don’t wash the
leaves. For drying, cut the leaves into strips and steam for 2-5 minutes.
Spread on trays no more than ½” thick, and dry. If using an oven, set the
temperature below 145°F, check and turn every hour. Kale will store at 32°F at
95%-100% humidity for 2-3 weeks. At 32°F to 40°F and 80%-90% humidity it will
store for up to 10 months (with fair taste).

Sources:

Denckla, Tanya., The Gardener’s A-Z Guide to Growing
Organic Food., Storey Publishing © 2003., pp.94-95.

Jeavons, John., How to Grow More Vegetables* 7^th
Edition., Ten Speed Press © 2006., pp. 90-91.

Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

Family: Compositae or Asterceae (Sunflower family)

Temperature:

• For
  germination: 40°F-80°F
• For
  growth: 60°F-65°F

--Soil and Water Needs--

pH: 6.0-7.5

Fertilizer: Heavy feeder.

Side Dressing: Every 2 weeks, apply balanced fertilizer or
foliar spray

Water: Low to medium, heavy in arid climates, water early in
the morning to minimize diseases

--Measurements--

Planting Depth: ¼”-½”

Root Depth: 18”-36”, with 5’ taproot

Height: 6”-12”

Breadth: 6”-12”

Space Between Plants:

• In
  Beds:
  • Head
    Lettuce: 10”-12”
  • Leaf
    Lettuce: 6”-8”
  • Romaine
    Lettuce: 10”
• In
  Rows:12”

Space Between Rows: 14”

--Grow Biointensive Measurements--

Space Between Plants:

• In
  Beds:
  • Head
    Lettuce: 12”
  • Leaf
    Lettuce: 8” in winter and 9” in spring-fall
  • Romaine
    Lettuce: N/A

Maximum Number of Plants per 100 Square Feet:

• Head
  Lettuce: 159
• Leaf
  Lettuce: 320 in winter and 248 in spring-fall
• Romaine
  Lettuce: N/A

--Threats and Interactions--

Pests: Aphid, beet leafhopper, cabbage looper, cutworm,
earwig, flea beetle, garden centipede, leaf miner, millipede, slug, snail

Diseases: Bacterial soft rot, botrytis rot, damping off,
downy mildew, fusarium wilt, lettuce drop, mosaic, pink rot, powdery mildew,
tip burn

Allies: Uncertain: Chive, garlic, radish

Companions: Beet (to head lettuce), all brassicas (except
broccoli), carrot, cucumber, onion family, pole lima bean, strawberry

Incompatibilities: None; some studies have shown lettuce to
be sensitive to plant residues of barley, broccoli, broad bean, vetch, wheat,
rye

Planting:

First Seed-Starting Date:
(Plant every 10 days in case of poor germination)

Last Seed-Starting Date:

Harvest notes:

For leaf lettuce, start picking the leaves when there are at
least five to six mature leaves of usable size. Usable size means about 2” long
for baby lettuce and 5”-6” long for more mature lettuce. Keep picking until a
seed stalk appears or the leaves become bitter. For head lettuce, when the head
feels firm and mature simply cut it off at the soil surface. Harvest all the
lettuce in early morning for the maximum carotene and best taste. Refrigerate
immediately.

Storage Requirements:

Lettuce does not store well for long periods and is best
eaten fresh. At 32°F-40°F at humidity of 80%-90% the storage life of lettuce is
1 month. At 32°F at 98%-100% humidity the storage life is 2-3 weeks.

Sources:

Denckla, Tanya., The Gardener’s A-Z Guide to Growing
Organic Food., Storey Publishing © 2003., pp.97-99.

Jeavons, John., How to Grow More Vegetables* 7^th
Edition., Ten Speed Press © 2006., pp. 90-91.

In 2005, the Local Energy Farm Demonstration Project, located at the University of British Columbia, experimented with the production of flax. The stalk of the flax plant can be used to create fine fibers for textile or it can be shredded and combined with recycled paper pulp or hemp to provide an alternative to wood-based paper products. Flax is also grown for its oil rich seed (linseed). The seed can be used for feeding livestock (35% crude protein) and for industrial use as a drying agent in ink, paint, and lacquer.

In brief research related to companion planting, and variety of web resources and books report that the growth of carrots, onions, and potatos are enhanced when they are planted next to stands of flax. Flax deters the potato bug, a nusicence of certain tuber crops. I am eager to test this later in the spring.

Other sources report that clover grows well with flax because it is not overly shaded by the thin flax plants. Sowing flax with clover could prove to be an effective way to grow a useful energy crop and improve the land at the same time. Once the flax is harvested you would then be able to incorporate the nitrogen rich clover into the surrounding soil and add organic matter at the same time. To get two crops out of one area, and potentially improve the land is an example of companion planting and good use of cover crops.

There are many symbiotic relationships in nature. Plants and herbs can be grown together to enhance growth, helpful predator insects are attracted by a specific flower to combat a specific crop pest, and even bacteria interact with special leguminous plants to transform nitrogen into a form that plants and animals can use. In this blog, I would like to focus on nitrogen fixation, a very special relationship between bacteria, plants, the soil, and the atmosphere.

In brief, nitrogen fixation is a process where inert N2 (nitrogen gas) is converted into usable ammonia (NH3). This form of nitrogen is important to plants and animals as it helps to manufacture amino acids, proteins, nucleic acids and other nitrogen-containing components necessary for life.

Nitrogen fixation by legumes is a partnership between a bacterium and a plant. The plant supplies all the necessary nutrients and energy for the bacteria. Examples of legume plants include Alfalfa, Fava Beans, Vetch, Peanuts, Soy Beans, and Clover. Other plants benefit from nitrogen-fixing bacteria when the bacteria die and release nitrogen to the environment or when the bacteria live in close association with the plant.

A common soil bacterium, Rhizobium, invades the root of a legume and multiplies within the root cells forming bump-like masses called nodules. Within these nodules, nitrogen fixation is done by the bacteria, and the NH3 (ammonia) produced is absorbed by the plant. A way to determine whether or not nitrogen fixation is occurring in a plant is to investigate the roots. When fixation occurs the nodules turn from white or gray to pink.

It is a common misconception that nitrogen fixing plants deliver nitrogen directly to the soil via their root systems. The following is from the W.C. Lindemann, a Soil Microbiologist from New Mexico State University:

The amount of nitrogen returned to the soil during or after a legume crop can be misleading. Almost all of the nitrogen fixed goes directly into the plant. Little leaks into the soil for a neighboring non-legume plant. However, nitrogen eventually returns to the soil for a neighboring plant when vegetation (roots, leaves, fruits) of the legume dies and decomposes. When the grain from a grain legume crop is harvested, little nitrogen is returned for the following crop. Most of the nitrogen fixed during the season is removed from the field. The stalks, leaves and roots of grain legumes, such as soybeans and beans contain about the same concentration of nitrogen as found in non-legume crop residue. In fact, the residue from a corn crop contains more nitrogen than the residue from a bean crop, simply because the corn crop has more residues. A perennial or forage legume crop only adds significant nitrogen for the following crop if the entire biomass (stems, leaves, roots) is incorporated into the soil. If forage is cut and removed from the field, most of the nitrogen fixed by the forage is removed. Roots and crowns add little soil nitrogen compared with the aboveground biomass.

Taking the implications of the above paragraph seriously, it is important to till in a legume cover crops in order to utilize the nitrogen fixed from the atmosphere. This process is similar to carbon sequestration process mentioned in the previous blog. When we incorporate plant matter back into the soil we feed the microbial life of the soil foodweb. These microbes mineralize nutrients in the soil, aid aggregation of soil particles, and help to form humus that improve overall health and vitality of the soil.

To read W.C. Lindemann’s paper and to learn more about nitrogen fixation check out the following links:

http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_a/a-129.pdf

http://overton.tamu.edu/clover/cool/nfix.htm

One of the cornerstones of sound agricultural practice is companion planting. In his book How to Grow More Vegetables, Willits local, John Jeavons, suggests that companion planting is the constructive use of plant relationships by gardeners, horticulturalists, and farmers. Indeed, the aim of companion planting is to build mini-ecosystems of positive interrelationships that enhance plant growth, enrich the soil, and provide a habitat for beneficial animals and insects.

Many different aspects of plants and the ecosystem interact to form helpful, symbiotic relationships. Consider the following:

• Combinations of deep rooted and shallow rooted crops do not compete for nutrients in the soil
• Nitrogen fixing legume plants may be sown in combination with crops that are heavy nitrogen feeders
• Certain herbs and flowers are planted in close proximity to attract beneficial insects and animals that feed on garden pests (Ex. Ladybugs or Birds eat Aphids)
• Fast maturing crops can be intercropped with slower maturing crops (Ex. Radish matures faster than Carrots)
• Crops that prefer shade can be sown with taller plants (ex. Cucumber is shaded by Corn)

I will be searching for appropriate symbiotic plant and animal relationships to manage pests, recuperate the soil, control weeds, and simultaneously grow combinations of food and energy crops. Companion planting is one method in a basket of agricultural practices that we will use on present and future energy farm sites to grow healthy crops without the use of herbicides, pesticides, or petrol based fertilizers. Below is a list of resources that can be used to find more information.

Online:

http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html

http://www.seedsofchange.com/enewsletter/issue_55/companion_planting.asp

http://www.minifarmhomestead.com/gardening/companionplant.htm

Books:

How to Grow More Vegatables by John Jeavons

The Gardener's A-Z Guide to Growing Organic Food by Tanya Denckla